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This blog post is a follow up to a video posted here. Check it out. I’ll make updates and add comments as I continue to learn more. I’m currently working with two vendors of adhesives who’s product is superior to the water based latex I’ve listed here. Unfortunately there material can only be purchased commercially and is banned in some states from use.

Update: I’ve found a solvent based adhesive that doesn’t need to be purchased in 5 gallon containers. Product is shown below and can be purchased in 1 quart or 1 gallon quantities. I’ve an Ace Hardware near me and they can special order this adhesive. Unfortunately, state-by-state VOC requirements prevent chain stores from carrying the product on their shelves. Depending upon your state, you may not be able to order this product.

 

Re-attaching Rubber

Materials:

1. Roberts 6700 Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Adhesive
   Weldwood’s All Weather Outdoor Carpet Adhesive
2. Putty or plaster knife

Process:

1. Remove all loose dirt, sand and debris
2. Apply adhesive to both surfaces base surface, agility contact and rubber
3. Apply pressure, like a weight, if needed to keep skin from curling
4. Allow minimum of 24 hours for adhesive to set in dry area

If you want to tackle the project. It’s easy and only takes a few minutes to re-attach a rubber surface. First, make sure the area is clean of loose debris. Attached is a picture of the adhesive I use. I purchased it online. You can buy it in quart or gallon The small quart size container is all you need for patching and will do large enough area for a resurfacing a teeter. Keep it on hand and patch whenever the skin comes loose.

Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry before applying a thin coating to both the rubber and the agility contact surface. The adhesive is solvent based and needs to be applied in a well ventilated area. Follow instructions for applications. Once the adhesive has setup, no worries on getting wet. The adhesive is designed for outdoor carpeting.

The rubber may need weight on top to help it set in place if curling away from agility contact occurs. Keep in mind, air needs to flow to the adhesive to dry it out. If you cover an area to prevent curling you’ll need to allow more curing time. Allow at least 24 hours in a dry environment for adhesive to setup. I’ve done this outside with equipment in place, but I make sure the weather will cooperate and not get the equipment wet.

Patching Rubber Surface

Materials:

1. Quality outdoor rated latex paint
2. Paint roller and pan
3. Paint brush
4. Rubber pellets

Process:

1. Remove all loose dirt, sand and debris
2. Apply thick coat of paint
3. Sprinkle granulated rubber into the wet paint and allow to dry
4. Repeat Step 3 until desired appearance achieved
5. Paint entire agility contact surface

My preference for paint is the Behr Porch and Patio Floor Paint. We’ve been making K9Einstein agility equipment for 14 years and use this paint for all our painted contacts. Unlike enamel paint, latex paint stays flexible. And, since our equipment is all aluminum, the latex paint resists chipping and cracking under repeated expansion/contraction of the aluminum skin. You’ll want this same flexibility when painting over rubber.

A final note on paint: American Kennel Club does not allow gloss paint to be used on equipment. If you’ll be using your equipment for competition, avoid gloss paint. 

All rubber agility surfaces use thermoplastic vulcanizates rubber (TPV) for their pellets. This is an engineered plastic, it’s not a true rubber. Rubber is a natural organic material that wouldn’t do well outdoors. Fortunately it won’t make any difference for repairing your surface. You’ll be coating the pellets with paint, so UV resistant TPV won’t be of any benefit. Feel free to cut rubber bands into small pieces. Or, ask someone who makes rubber surfaces for a handful of leftover TPV pellets. The color of the pellets won’t matter since you’ll be painting over anyway.

Finishing Touches

Now that you’ve fixed and painted your equipment you’re ready to go, right? . . . Not so fast. Take time to inspect and repair your equipment. Look for broken welds, listen for sloshing water, replace missing end caps, and look for anything that can cause injury to yourself or your dog. Loose and/or exposed screws can shred a dogs foot (why K9Einstein uses rivets). Now is the time to fix it. If you’ve purchased equipment from K9Einstein, those parts and repairs are free. If not, click here for a source for most hardware needs.

Teeter Calibration

Materials:

1. 3 lb weight
2. Stop watch
3. Weights if needed

Process:

1. Fix weight 12 inches from down end of teeter
2. Time drop of teeter

Calibrating a teeter is super simple. Why calibration is not done more…? Here’s the process as required by the American Kennel Club: “The plank is balanced so that it hits the ground in less than 3 seconds when a 3-pound weight is placed 12 inches from the raised end.”

By repairing and painting the teeter, we’ve changed the weight and dynamics. The teeter needs to be calibrated. All K9Einstein teeters are calibrated to 2 seconds before leaving our manufacturing plant. That’s fast! But here’s the reasoning: In a typical operating environment, the front of the teeter will load with dirt slowing the teeter over time.
I strongly recommend 2 seconds. Here’s the process I use: Box wrap (clingy plastic food wrap) a 3 pound weight 12″ from the end of the teeter, then time the drop. If I’m not seeing times under 2.3 seconds, then I box wrap two ounces of wheel weights (see picture; 4 weights@1/2 oz) to the end of the teeter. Repeat this process until the time is under 2.3 seconds. When time is achieved, remove adhesive tape from wheel weights and stick to bottom side of teeter.

Click here for a link to where I purchase my wheel weights, but any automotive store stocks these. Most tire replacement stores will give you a few of them if you ask.